Sweetbitter recap: ‘Everyone Is Soigné’


Whoever knew it was so hard to master the three-plate stack? In last night’s episode of Sweetbitter, Tess shows off her work ethic.

She desperately wants to pass graduate from back server to server. It seems her latest obstacle is the three-plate stack, in which Tess botched horribly. The plates burn her arm, and her pinky finger is too weak in Sweetbitter.

So, Tess borrows some plates from the restaurant to practice at home. Then, she invites fellow back waiter, Will, to her apartment to help. What ensues is nothing short of an I-saw-that-coming-from-a-mile-away.

They end up hooking up.

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The thing is, I like Will. He’s kind to Tess and doesn’t treat her like a baby or like she’s nothing. At the restaurant, he takes time to explains things and doesn’t berate her if she screws up. He’s trying, and he seems to understand that. He’s clearly into her.

But, she likes Jake – who’s been a jerk towards her.

Tess shows she’s a typical girl here. She’s into a guy who is hot and cold, emotionally unavailable and seems like a bad boy. Oh Tess, don’t fall for it!

In other restaurant news, Simone disses a VIP patron, otherwise known as soigné. The very special diner is Serena, and she went from back server to server at that very establishment. She met her wealthy husband, another soigné customer, and now she no longer has to work.

When Serena calls to get a last-minute table, Simone smugly says they can’t accommodate her on such short notice, and that’s that. But, Serena calls Howard, who gets her in. Is Simone jealous? It seems that way. There’s definitely a back story.

Of course, Tess overhears their conversation in the wine cellar. It turns out Serena and her husband come in every few months. She doesn’t eat her food when she comes, and then she cries to Simone to save her from her life.

Simone is exhausted by Serena’s problems. She tells Tess that Serena made her choices and she needs to live with them. Tess takes the commentary to heart. She knows she has her own decision to make.

Ultimately, she cuts Will. The truth is she likes Jake, and she needs to concentrate on getting promoted at the restaurant. The news crushes Will, but he recovers at least to save face in front of Tess.

One thing that irked me off during the episode was a line uttered by Simone after Tess asked her if it was a Pinot Grigio kind of night.

“It’s never a Pinot Grigio night.”

How dare you! Pinot Grigio is the best! Lady Gaga even wrote a song about it. I realized that I don’t enjoy wine snobs. Whatever kind of wine you like, you embrace it. You do you! Don’t let people like Simone try to tell you any differently.

Rant over.

Next: Sweetbitter: ‘Salt’ recap

What’s in store next week? Will a hurt Will hold things against Tess because she rejected him? Will Jake ever stop acting so aloof? What restaurant skill will Tess master next?

We’ll find out next week on Sweetbitter. Read last week’s recap.